The world of art has always seen an intertwining of disciplines: sculpture with painting, music with cinema, and in Sofia's case, architecture with jewellery design. After leaving in Portugal, Sofia pursued architectural studies in London and later delved into scenography, where she first encountered jewellery-making. While working in the tech industry and creating sculptural art, Sofia nurtured a passion for jewellery design as a hobby. This passion eventually blossomed into a full-fledged business, giving birth to ''ESQUIVEL''. The brand epitomises a harmonious blend of traditional craftsmanship with a contemporary and technologically advanced design approach, featuring materials such as 925 sterling silver and gold sourced from Portugal.
We sat down with Sofia to discuss contemporary craftsmanship, the integration of new technologies, and how traditional techniques are being reimagined for modern times.
The Inception and Inspiration Behind Esquivel Jewellery
Q: Tell us about Esquivel Jewellery: its inception and the inspiration behind its creation.
A: My journey into jewellery design was deeply influenced by my background in architecture. The discipline of architecture, particularly the exploration of scale in relation to the human body, has consistently been a significant source of inspiration. Esquivel Jewellery represents this fusion: traditional craftsmanship techniques are seamlessly integrated with a contemporary and technologically advanced design approach.
A Passion for Jewellery Making
Q: Where does your passion for jewellery making originate?
A: My passion for manual work began in childhood and further developed during my university studies. I formed a special connection with creating models and working with scales, using materials like painted styrofoam and cardboard. These models, while not conventionally aesthetic by architectural standards, laid the foundation for the design process I continue to use today—albeit with different tools. Even then, I envisioned myself working in fields that transcended traditional architecture.
Esquivel’s Target Audience
Q: Who is the primary target audience for Esquivel Jewellery?
A: Our audience is truly international, and we design pieces that are suitable for both men and women. We believe jewellery transcends gender; what matters most is that individuals connect with the pieces and their inherent stories.
Core Values of the Brand
Q: What are the core values that define Esquivel Jewellery?
A: At Esquivel, we embrace creativity, viewing our pieces as wearable art that encapsulates a piece of architectural history, infused with deep symbolism and culture. Innovation is key to our process; we integrate advanced techniques like 3D modelling and printing with sophisticated materials suitable for lost-wax casting. Sustainability is also central to our ethos; we produce limited collections to minimise waste, utilising noble materials that can be repeatedly melted and reused without compromising quality.
Design Techniques and Material Use
Q: Can you elaborate on the main materials and design techniques you use?
A: The design phase of our pieces mirrors the initial stages of architectural design. It begins with researching references, followed by hand-drawing, crafting paper models, and progressing to 3D modelling and printing. Once these preliminary steps are complete, the piece is produced in silver using time-honoured artisanal techniques. We utilise the lost-wax method for casting and perform all finishing touches by hand, ensuring a refined and meticulous final product.
''At Esquivel, we embrace creativity, viewing our pieces as wearable art that encapsulates a piece of architectural history, infused with deep symbolism and culture. Innovation is key to our process''
The Role of Craftsmanship
Q: How integral is craftsmanship to your work at Esquivel Jewellery?
A: Craftsmanship is at the heart of what we do. We believe the manual element is integral to human essence and must be preserved, ensuring such skills are not forgotten or undervalued in the face of technological advancement. The aesthetic refinement of our pieces would not be possible without the handcrafted finishes.
Balancing Innovation with Creativity
Q: How do you balance innovation with creativity in the design process?
A: It’s about finding harmony between tradition and technology. With 3D printing, we combine modern technology with traditional methods, ensuring that the final product is crafted with the same meticulous care as in the past. This synthesis allows us to adapt to the fast-paced world while staying true to our artistic roots.
Significant Milestones shaped by Customer Feedback
Q: Could you share a significant moment or milestone in Esquivel Jewellery’s journey that stands out to you?
A: One of the most significant achievements has been expanding our client base beyond friends and acquaintances to attract new and unfamiliar customers. This year, we’ve created some fascinating bespoke pieces, including engagement rings inspired by significant architectural buildings. These commissions are particularly gratifying, as they reflect the distinctive design and process that our clients seek out.
Q: What role does customer feedback play in the development of your collections?
A: Customer feedback is invaluable to us. We listen closely to our clients’ preferences, whether they are interested in new necklaces, earrings, rings, or other items. For example, in our latest collection, we introduced hoop earrings—an item that had been frequently requested and has since become one of our best sellers.
Long-Term Goals & The Future of Esquivel Jewellery in a Technological Era
Q: What are the long-term goals for Esquivel Jewellery?
A: Our aim is not just to be a jewellery brand, but to become a reference in the design of objects that narrate the story of architecture. We also seek to collaborate with other entities, such as brands or businesses closely associated with architecture, to further expand our creative horizons.
Q: How do you envision the future of Esquivel Jewellery and the industry, in an era of rapid technological advancements like AI?
A: I view AI as an incredible tool for designers. I use AI for research and generating reference images, which helps explore various ideas during the creative process. While I haven’t yet created anything directly from AI that translates into a silver piece, it’s invaluable in aiding creativity. However, the core values of the brand remain grounded in traditional craftsmanship, ensuring a balance between innovation and heritage.
The Value of Traditional Craftsmanship
Q: In your opinion, will traditional craftsmanship continue to hold value in the modern world?
A: I believe so, and I hope this remains the case. There is an increasing awareness and appreciation for the value of manual craftsmanship, especially for unique and exclusive pieces that tell a story.
Advice for Young Artisans
Q: What advice would you give to young artisans entering the jewellery industry today?
A: There are no right or wrong paths. Above all, it’s crucial to observe and immerse oneself in different experiences—references are everything for an artist. I believe studying and living in culturally rich cities like London or New York can be profoundly enriching. Embrace the possibility of shifting fields and exploring new areas without fear.
Esquivel Jewellery is defined by its perfect blend of tradition and innovation, grounded in three main pillars: the integration of architecture, the use of advanced and traditional techniques, and a commitment to preserving manual craftsmanship. The brand seamlessly merges the timeless influence of architectural history with cutting-edge technology, resulting in unique pieces that bridge modern and classic aesthetics. As Esquivel Jewellery continues to evolve, it remains dedicated to crafting high-quality, handcrafted jewellery that tells a compelling story, while embracing new tools and techniques to enhance the creative process. The brand’s vision for the future is to set a benchmark in jewellery design, harmonising the artistry of the past with the advancements of the present.
Shop ESQUIVEL here
https://www.esquiveljewellery.com/
Interview by Patrícia Madeira, TCL